petemain.co.uk The meanderings of an outdoorsy sort of person

THE WEATHER, WALKS, CYCLE RIDES AND PLACES TO VISIT

Weather

All these walks/cycle rides/visits were done in the first two weeks of December 2006. The weather was mostly sunny apart from the last two days which were cloudy but dry. There was very little wind apart from one day and the daytime temperature was mostly in the range of 15-18c (occasionally higher). This made perfect conditions for our activities, warm enough for short sleeved tops and shorts when cycling but at no time too hot. Occasionally it was cool in the shadows. It only rained twice during our holiday, a small amount of drizzle on the day we arrive and walked round Puerto de Mazarron and once, heavily with thunder, during the night.

Walks

Equipment and ‘under foot’ conditions

We each carried a small rucksack with some (or all) of the following items: food, drink (usually a camelback), phone, keys, lightweight fleece and waterproof, camera, binoculars, map, and compass.  All walks were on paths or tracks. Off-track can be a bit rough with fierce vegetation and we wouldn’t recommend straying too far from the path. The weather was so good that at no time did we feel the need to carry the safety gear that we would take in Scotland at this time of year. The spiky nature of the vegetation makes long trousers a good idea and all the walks could be done in lightweight boots/trainers or even good sandals. There is virtually no water anywhere as the majority of the rivers are dry. There are no doubt more demanding and serious mountains to be climbed, but finding out where they are and where the routes go is difficult.  We were very content to amble along these scenic and undemanding routes with the reward a ‘Café con Leche’ and/or some tapas afterwards. The timings are for Pete/Kathryn’s ‘walking’ pace and include stops.

Walk 1 - Casa Forestal, Las Alquerías (circular walk about 1½ hours)

Near Casa Forestal, Las Alquerías

A small amount of climbing followed by a gradual descent and a gradual climb back to the start. The entire route is on a well graded path with excellent views of cliffs, wooded peaks and south towards the coastal plain. This and other routes are displayed on information boards at the Casa but we were unable to obtain maps or leaflets. There is also a restaurant at the Casa and a nice picnic area with lots of substantial BBQ structures although we didn’t try either. There are several longer walks from this base with routes displayed on the notice boards. If you find a pedometer on the path half way round, it’s ours.

Walk 2 - La Santa Eulalia - Virgen Blanca - El Zorro - Las Zanjas - Aledo & return about 4hrs)

La Santa	View from Aledo
Aledo	Moorish Tower

                                                             

An interesting walk with excellent views of the Espuña Mountains with almond and olive groves below. After leaving La Santa the path traverses round the north side of the hill (quite narrow at this point) across slopes of rosemary & thyme (no sage or parsley!). Once round the north side the path heads south to Aledo through small farms and groves. Aledo is well worth a visit and is reminiscent of the Andalusian white villages (except it’s not quite so white).  There are a couple of bars there and a Moorish Tower that was being renovated when we were there (so there was no access). Return the same way and have coffee and tapas at the excellent café bar with friendly staff at La Santa. We used a walks leaflet and again were unable to find a map.  www.totana.net for pics of Totana and at Santa Eulalia.

Walk 3 - Las Balsicas area: from 1km north of Las Balsicas to a col at SH 291 below La Almedia and return via track to N of SH 206 (about 2 hours)

              

The Col

The Sign

Finding the start is tricky. Use the local 1/25,000 map.  Go to the lowest point in the road between Las Balsicas and Los Lorentes. The tarmac road actually runs along the Rambla (dry river bed) for a short while.  Follow the unsurfaced track that runs up the Rambla for about one km.  There are a couple of dwellings set back from this track. A tall blue sign named El Mingrano, showing a walker and a camera marks the start of the route.  Park here, plenty of space. Follow the smaller track north up the hill to the col at SH 291.  It is a charming track and was very peaceful when we were there. Unfortunately the peace will be shattered by the new autovia that runs across the head of the valley.  There are MILES of tracks to explore in this area, great potential for both walking and mountain biking. Easy peaks could also be bagged on either side of the col. Return the same way or, part way down, take a faint track that is shown on the map.  This peters out in a flat area but a track used by herds of goats can be picked up nearby to bring you down into the valley near the car.

There are several well signposted walks from this Casa and even some running water but don’t expect them to either provide or sell you a decent map. The exhibition is of interest.

Well worth the trip for the excellent views across Mazarron bay. The narrow stairs to the top of the tower might be tricky for some, but present no problems for retired geriatric outdoor instructors. Go to the end of La Azohia, walk up to and climb the tower. Coffee in Bronwyn’s favourite bar afterwards?

Cycle Rides

Equipment

I used Sam’s Decathlon MTB which was lightweight and responsive and is a good compromise allowing both on and off-road riding.  I am 5’9” and the bike was just large enough for me (if I was any taller it would have been too small). I took my own shoes which were very comfortable with Sam’s spd pedals. The bike had a small toolkit and I took my Camelback rucksack containing similar items to those taken on the hill walks. As I did most of the rides on my own I was very cautious of doing much off-road but there is some fantastic potential out there, even close to Puerto de Mazarron. I have ‘roadie’ tendencies anyway and so was happy enough to explore the local tarmac. Bronwyn’s bike was unfortunately too small for Kathryn to use comfortably.

Obtaining maps for this area is a problem. Fortunately Sam has got hold of the local 1/50,000 and 1/25,000 maps for Puerto de Mazarron and the surrounding area and these were very useful.   It still took a while to tune into them and work out, for example, which roads had tarmac on them and which didn’t. It proved impossible to get a decent road map of the Espuña despite calling in and asking at every tourist office we could find. We were amazed that the Casa Forestal in the Espuña could offer nothing more than sketch maps.   There are some fantastic off-road MTB routes waiting to be done in the Espuña as well as around Puerto de Mazarron. It was a quiet time of year so no roads were busy and drivers treat you with far more respect than in Britain and give a wider berth. Many roads have a nice wide cycle lane and I felt very safe cycling in there. I suspect that some of the major roads could be quite unpleasant at the height of summer with higher temperatures and a lot more traffic.

Distances & Timings & Route Descriptions

Distances were pure guesswork on our part and estimated from the map, it would be interesting to know just how long the routes are. I have not suggested any times for cycle rides as I could have done some routes faster on a road bike (or if I was 25 years younger) and I might have been slower with a refreshment stop. All the routes could be done the opposite way round to the way I have described them, with equal enjoyment.  When I have written ‘Puerto’ as the start/finish it means Sam & Bronwyn’s place.

Puerto to Las Basilicas, Los Lorentes & return (about 5 miles)

Puerto - Bolnuevo & return (about 7 miles)

A bit of a faff getting through Peurto de Mazarron, probably the best way is to pick up the promenade, go along to the harbour and then head right to pick up the Bolnuevo road. The Erosions at Bolnuevo are well worth a visit and can’t be missed (alongside the road through the town/village), some amazing shapes. Both ways you should stick as close as possible to the coast and on several sections (particularly the Bolnuevo end) it is possible to get off the road and onto the very attractive promenade.  We sat on a bench by the sea and watched a superb sunset.

                                     

December in Spain

The descent to the sea

The N332 climbs gradually to over 1000’ and was quiet. Descend past the ‘split road (you’ll know it when you see it) and turn right after a couple of miles to Perin, a nice small road through olive & almond groves leads to the village. This area is very well looked after.  Join the main road from Cartagena to the coast (E16) which climbs to a high point in the mountains. There are spectacular views, especially from a good lay-by just above the hairpins, and a fast descent to the coast; attack your speed record on the long straight bit.  Nice ride along the coast to finish, tapas bars if you want to stop.

Part of the descent / climb of the Marron Espuña

We found getting into Cartagena quite tricky as the road was very busy and we eventually parked in the underground car park belonging to the El Corte Ingles Department store. It took us quite a long while to find the interesting bits as most of the streets had no name plates and we were misinformed as to our exact starting point by a local, so we walked in the wrong direction for a while despite having a street map. Eventually we found the tourist office and got some good advice.  Our journey then took us round the old town walls and up the hill onto the Castilla de la Conception from where we had excellent views of the city, the old bull ring and the roman amphitheatre. Arriving in the pedestrian area about 6pm we stopped for hot chocolate (Spanish style) at the Valor Café in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.  We enjoyed the treat although we wouldn’t recommend a continuous diet of the stuff; it’s a bit like hot thin chocolate blancmange and is delicious sipped through its topping of whipped cream (surprisingly, not UHT).  The traffic free area had a nice buzz about it, very pleasant to sit outside on a December evening and watch folk go about their business.  Definitely not Scotland !  Driving out of town was also tricky and we visited the Plaza de España twice after getting lost somewhere down towards the harbour. We believe the harbour is also worth a visit on foot but we didn’t get there on this occasion. Cartagena was well worth visiting; it has more ruins, going back thousands of years, than you could ever want to see.  Not top of our list but still worth a visit.

Totana & Sierra d’Espuña

Totana is a small town with some interesting bits.  We arrived when there were celebrations for Barcelona football team winning something.  There were bouncy castles, children’s sporting competitions, an outdoor dog show and all sorts of strange stuff. The river that once flowed through the town has obviously not had water in it for years as it is smoothed out and was being used as a car park (picture above). We had a nice coffee at an open air café near the Iglesia de las Tres Aves Maria. We then drove on into the Sierra Espuña past La Santa and Aledo (which we were to visit later) and up to the Casa Forestal Las Alquerias. We had a walk there (see walks) and then drove ‘over the hill’ to the Casa Forestal Heurta Espuña. It seems most of the ‘locals’ only go as far as the Casas where they stop and have a short walk (maybe), a BBQ or a meal in the restaurant. The road over the hill was very quiet which was a good job in view of the dozens if hairpins.  However, it isn’t too narrow and there are good crash barriers most of the way. This was where Pete cycled over later in the holiday. We missed out taking the road to the highest point as time was getting short. A recommended trip as a reconnaissance or if driving about is your thing.

The Gun Batteries of Castillito, Jorel and Altalayon at Cabo Tiñoso

An abandoned fort, last used in the Spanish Civil War at the end of a narrow precipitous road. Definitely not for wobbly drivers. If this place was anywhere else in Europe it would be tarted up, have a visitor centre and be closed at night, instead it seems just………abandoned. It is a huge area with some very large guns still pointing out to sea.   The cliffs are about 1000’ above sea level so the views are superb and on the right night so is the sunset.  We were there on the right night! Two 400 millimetre calibre guns remain, which once had a range of 35kms and fired howitzers weighing 0.8 tons. A lot of people were needed to look after these guns so there are large underground areas that can be explored by the brave with torches and plenty of time, but not by us. The guns were made at Barrow-in-Furness by Vickers. Parts of the film The Guns of Navarone are alleged to have been filmed here.  It is a 1961 film based on a well-known 1957 novel about World War II by Scottish thriller writer Alistair MacLean. It starred Gregory Peck, David Niven and Anthony Quinn. The book and the film share the same basic plot: the efforts of an Allied commando team to destroy on narrow roads. seemingly impregnable German fortress that threatens Allied naval ships in the Aegean Sea, and prevents 2,000 isolated British troops from being rescued. Well worth a visit for the interest and especially for the sunset but don’t go if you are nervous on narrow roads 

Aguilas